The Rising Sun: Fear Mountain

This post will look at the more spiritual side of Aomori Prefecture.
In Aomori Prefecture, you can find one of the three most sacred places in Japan. Osore-zan is also know as Fear Mountain and for good reason. This mountain has a Buddhist temple (Bodaiji) with landscape surrounding it reflecting what Buddhist’s describe as the afterlife. There are eight mountains symbolizing the lotus flower as well as 108 vents that release sulfuric steam or mud representing the 108 worldly desires and evils. With lots of volcanic activity, there is a constant smell of sulfur in the air. The nearby Lake Usori is many different shades of blue due to the different levels of sulfur in it. Signs warn visitors of the poisonous pit vipers, crows flock, only one fish (big-scaled redfin) is able to survive in Lake Usori, and the chatter of bugs is nowhere to be heard. Despite the cold landscape, it can be a place of hope to the family and friends of the departed.
During the Bodaiji Festival, people who want to communicate to the dead can talk through spiritual mediums called itako. Itako are usually visually impaired and have rosaries with old coins, teeth, bones, and animal claws on it. Even if maybe the messages are similar, the customers don’t care lining up for hours and coming out visibly affected by the purification ritual.
The river, Sanzu no Kawa, is the Buddhist version of the River Styx. A river that all the dead must cross. Babies and unborn children have piles of pebbles on the riverbed trying to get to paradise. Offerings of pebbles is everywhere as parents hope the spirit named Jizo uses them to help their children get to paradise and drive away the demons. Depending on the country and place Jizo can be seen as male and female however most Jizo in Japan are male. Statues of Jizo is everywhere with a red bib and cap seen with sandals put in front of him to protect his feet from the sharp riverbed of Sanzu no Kawa. Toys, money, food, candy, and brightly colored flowers stand out from the gray ground. These things represent the small pleasures in life that the children can no longer experience. Where Jizo is kind and is the yin principle, Fudo is fierce and the yang principle. Seen with fangs and a terrifying face, Fudo demands the best and is a purifier.

It’s founder was En’nin about 1200 years ago was studying in China when he had a dream. In it a holy monk told him to go back to Japan. Once he was there he had a “thirty days walk from Kyoto” to find a sacred mountain where he would carve a Jizo and teach Buddhism. After many hardships he found the mountainous area of Shimokita peninsula which had all the requirements from the dream. It has been there ever since.
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